Choosing the Right Climbing Shoes: A Guide to Picking Your Feet’s New Best Frenemies
So, you’ve decided to invest in a pair of indoor climbing shoes, where terms like “aggressive downturn” and “toe box” are tossed around like we all know what they mean. You may wonder why shoes are such a big deal. Can't you just wear whatever's lying around? Ah, young climber, if only! Picking the right climbing shoes is key to making those boulder problems feel doable—and more importantly, to not crushing your toes until they beg for mercy.
With this 5 step guide, you’ll learn the ins and outs of climbing shoe selection. Let’s dive into the wild world of fit, type, and style for your foot’s (slightly reluctant) success story!
Step 1: The Fit — Or, "How Tight Should This Thing Actually Be?"
Let’s get one thing straight: climbing shoes are not supposed to feel like your favorite cozy slippers. But that doesn’t mean they should feel like medieval torture devices, either. Finding the right fit is about getting snug, not screaming.
The Toe Curl Conundrum
Toes curling slightly? Good! Crushed like sardines? Not so good. You want a snug fit that lets your toes curl a little, so they can grip holds better. If you’re wincing in pain, or you’re considering cutting off a toe to make them fit, you might want to try the next size up.
Heel Hug
A well-fitting heel should make you feel like someone’s giving your foot a tight hug. If there’s any wiggle room, you’re looking at heel slips—and that’s a one-way ticket to sad, unstable climbs. Aim for that “goldilocks” heel: firm, but not pinchy.
The “Barely-Breathing” Test
Now stand up. Can you still feel your toes? Excellent, you’re on the right track. You should feel some pressure but not the need to dial 911. Find that balance where your foot feels snug and supported. Again, like a gentle hug—if that hug had a little bit of a squeeze.
Step 2: Types of Climbing Shoes — From "Casual Climb" to "Steep Wall Savant"
Climbing shoes come in three basic shapes that’ll determine whether you’re in for a day of casual gym fun or tackling overhangs like a spiderman-wannabe.
1. Neutral Shoes (a.k.a. “The Laid-Back Loungers”)
Neutral shoes are flat and relaxed, like that chill friend who never wants to hike but is happy to hang. They’re great for beginners or anyone planning a long session because they let your toes stay almost flat (hello, comfort). If you’re mostly climbing slabs or moderate vertical walls, these are a solid choice.
Perfect for: New climbers, “easy” day gym-goers, and anyone who values comfort over contortion.
2. Moderate Shoes (a.k.a. "Weekend Warriors")
With a slight curve, moderate shoes say, "I’m here to have a good time, but I’m also kind of serious about this." They give you a bit of power and control for small holds without sacrificing all your comfort. These are a great option if you’re looking to dip your toes (literally) into harder routes without making your feet pay the ultimate price.
Perfect for: Intermediate climbers, anyone working on technical footwork, and those who want a taste of advanced shoes without the advanced agony.
3. Aggressive Shoes (a.k.a. “The Serious Senders”)
Aggressive shoes are all about that pointed, curved-down shape that shouts, "I mean business!" These are great for overhangs, tiny holds, and other situations where toe precision and power are your best friends. They’ll let you claw your way up steep routes but don’t expect to walk around comfortably in these beauties. These are not "grocery store" shoes.
Perfect for: Advanced climbers, those tackling overhanging walls, or anyone who’s developed a taste for that "bittersweet" tightness.
Step 3: Materials — The Leather vs. Synthetic Showdown
If you thought material didn’t matter, you haven’t yet met the difference between leather and synthetic. This is where your shoes either grow with you or stay forever firm.
Leather (aka "The Stretchy Companion")
Leather shoes are like that friend who starts chill and *mellows out* over time. They’ll stretch and mold to your foot, so if they start a little tight, don’t panic. With a few weeks (and, sure, some sweaty gym sessions), they’ll soften and fit like a glove (but, you know, for feet).
Pro Tip: Buy leather shoes a little tighter than you’d normally go—they’ll stretch to fit. Just be ready for that… let’s call it "well-worn gym sock" scent that may follow.
Synthetic (aka "The Unyielding Buddy")
Synthetic shoes, on the other hand, don’t stretch, so what you feel in the store is what you’ll feel in a few months. They’re a good choice if you don’t want your shoes changing shape over time or developing a funk that could clear out a crowded bouldering area. Just make sure they’re comfy from day one, because they won’t give you an inch.
Step 4: Match Your Shoes to Your Climbing Style (Your Feet Will Thank You)
Climbing shoes aren’t one-size-fits-all—your style of climbing should determine which shoes you pick. Let’s break it down:
Bouldering Lovers
If you’re all about bouldering and tackling short, powerful routes, then aggressive shoes are your new best friend. The claw shape will give you precision on tiny holds and all the grip you need for steep routes. Just be prepared to take them off after every route and stare longingly at everyone else’s comfy-looking kicks.
Top-Ropers and Vertical Climbers
For top-roping or tackling moderate vertical walls, moderate shoes are a dream come true. They give you the control you need without squeezing the life out of your toes. Plus, they’re versatile enough to handle a range of routes without forcing you into the painful aggressive-shoe commitment.
All-Day Climbers
Are you planning a full day at the gym? Maybe a shoe you won’t want to rip off between climbs is the way to go. Neutral shoes give you plenty of comfort while still letting you stick to holds, and they won’t make your feet look like they’ve been to war by the end of the session.
Step 5: The Store Test (a.k.a. "The Moment of Truth")
Once you’ve narrowed down the type, it’s time to hit the store and start trying shoes on. Trust us, it’s worth spending some time here before you commit, so do a few test moves:
Final Thoughts: Finding "The One"
The perfect climbing shoe should make you feel confident, capable, and just the right amount of squeezed. They’re going to push you to your limits but also make sure you have a (mostly) enjoyable time at the gym. And remember, just because your toes will hurt at first doesn’t mean they’re the wrong fit. There’s a difference between "good snug" and "I might lose a toe snug"—listen to your feet.
Now, go forth, try on every climbing shoe the store has, and let your new best friend take you to great heights (literally).
Want us to notify you about upcoming shoe demos or climbing shoe discounts? Sign-up below.
So, you’ve decided to invest in a pair of indoor climbing shoes, where terms like “aggressive downturn” and “toe box” are tossed around like we all know what they mean. You may wonder why shoes are such a big deal. Can't you just wear whatever's lying around? Ah, young climber, if only! Picking the right climbing shoes is key to making those boulder problems feel doable—and more importantly, to not crushing your toes until they beg for mercy.
With this 5 step guide, you’ll learn the ins and outs of climbing shoe selection. Let’s dive into the wild world of fit, type, and style for your foot’s (slightly reluctant) success story!
Step 1: The Fit — Or, "How Tight Should This Thing Actually Be?"
Let’s get one thing straight: climbing shoes are not supposed to feel like your favorite cozy slippers. But that doesn’t mean they should feel like medieval torture devices, either. Finding the right fit is about getting snug, not screaming.
The Toe Curl Conundrum
Toes curling slightly? Good! Crushed like sardines? Not so good. You want a snug fit that lets your toes curl a little, so they can grip holds better. If you’re wincing in pain, or you’re considering cutting off a toe to make them fit, you might want to try the next size up.
Heel Hug
A well-fitting heel should make you feel like someone’s giving your foot a tight hug. If there’s any wiggle room, you’re looking at heel slips—and that’s a one-way ticket to sad, unstable climbs. Aim for that “goldilocks” heel: firm, but not pinchy.
The “Barely-Breathing” Test
Now stand up. Can you still feel your toes? Excellent, you’re on the right track. You should feel some pressure but not the need to dial 911. Find that balance where your foot feels snug and supported. Again, like a gentle hug—if that hug had a little bit of a squeeze.
Step 2: Types of Climbing Shoes — From "Casual Climb" to "Steep Wall Savant"
Climbing shoes come in three basic shapes that’ll determine whether you’re in for a day of casual gym fun or tackling overhangs like a spiderman-wannabe.
1. Neutral Shoes (a.k.a. “The Laid-Back Loungers”)
Neutral shoes are flat and relaxed, like that chill friend who never wants to hike but is happy to hang. They’re great for beginners or anyone planning a long session because they let your toes stay almost flat (hello, comfort). If you’re mostly climbing slabs or moderate vertical walls, these are a solid choice.
Perfect for: New climbers, “easy” day gym-goers, and anyone who values comfort over contortion.
2. Moderate Shoes (a.k.a. "Weekend Warriors")
With a slight curve, moderate shoes say, "I’m here to have a good time, but I’m also kind of serious about this." They give you a bit of power and control for small holds without sacrificing all your comfort. These are a great option if you’re looking to dip your toes (literally) into harder routes without making your feet pay the ultimate price.
Perfect for: Intermediate climbers, anyone working on technical footwork, and those who want a taste of advanced shoes without the advanced agony.
3. Aggressive Shoes (a.k.a. “The Serious Senders”)
Aggressive shoes are all about that pointed, curved-down shape that shouts, "I mean business!" These are great for overhangs, tiny holds, and other situations where toe precision and power are your best friends. They’ll let you claw your way up steep routes but don’t expect to walk around comfortably in these beauties. These are not "grocery store" shoes.
Perfect for: Advanced climbers, those tackling overhanging walls, or anyone who’s developed a taste for that "bittersweet" tightness.
Step 3: Materials — The Leather vs. Synthetic Showdown
If you thought material didn’t matter, you haven’t yet met the difference between leather and synthetic. This is where your shoes either grow with you or stay forever firm.
Leather (aka "The Stretchy Companion")
Leather shoes are like that friend who starts chill and *mellows out* over time. They’ll stretch and mold to your foot, so if they start a little tight, don’t panic. With a few weeks (and, sure, some sweaty gym sessions), they’ll soften and fit like a glove (but, you know, for feet).
Pro Tip: Buy leather shoes a little tighter than you’d normally go—they’ll stretch to fit. Just be ready for that… let’s call it "well-worn gym sock" scent that may follow.
Synthetic (aka "The Unyielding Buddy")
Synthetic shoes, on the other hand, don’t stretch, so what you feel in the store is what you’ll feel in a few months. They’re a good choice if you don’t want your shoes changing shape over time or developing a funk that could clear out a crowded bouldering area. Just make sure they’re comfy from day one, because they won’t give you an inch.
Step 4: Match Your Shoes to Your Climbing Style (Your Feet Will Thank You)
Climbing shoes aren’t one-size-fits-all—your style of climbing should determine which shoes you pick. Let’s break it down:
Bouldering Lovers
If you’re all about bouldering and tackling short, powerful routes, then aggressive shoes are your new best friend. The claw shape will give you precision on tiny holds and all the grip you need for steep routes. Just be prepared to take them off after every route and stare longingly at everyone else’s comfy-looking kicks.
Top-Ropers and Vertical Climbers
For top-roping or tackling moderate vertical walls, moderate shoes are a dream come true. They give you the control you need without squeezing the life out of your toes. Plus, they’re versatile enough to handle a range of routes without forcing you into the painful aggressive-shoe commitment.
All-Day Climbers
Are you planning a full day at the gym? Maybe a shoe you won’t want to rip off between climbs is the way to go. Neutral shoes give you plenty of comfort while still letting you stick to holds, and they won’t make your feet look like they’ve been to war by the end of the session.
Step 5: The Store Test (a.k.a. "The Moment of Truth")
Once you’ve narrowed down the type, it’s time to hit the store and start trying shoes on. Trust us, it’s worth spending some time here before you commit, so do a few test moves:
- Try a Demo Wall: If there’s a demo wall, get on it. Test out toe hooks, heel hooks, and maybe even some awkward crouches to see if the shoe really feels right. You’re doing this for future you—the one who doesn’t want to discover surprise pain halfway up the wall.
- Walk Around the Carpet (If Allowed): Take a stroll. Yes, you’ll look a bit strange in contorted climbing shoes, but hey, that’s the life. You want to know if they’re comfortable enough for short periods of standing, too.
- Climb Some Imaginary Holds: Yeah, you may look silly clutching thin air, but test out some tiny "holds" using your toes on the ground. Every little bit helps in assessing if these shoes are right for you.
Final Thoughts: Finding "The One"
The perfect climbing shoe should make you feel confident, capable, and just the right amount of squeezed. They’re going to push you to your limits but also make sure you have a (mostly) enjoyable time at the gym. And remember, just because your toes will hurt at first doesn’t mean they’re the wrong fit. There’s a difference between "good snug" and "I might lose a toe snug"—listen to your feet.
Now, go forth, try on every climbing shoe the store has, and let your new best friend take you to great heights (literally).
Want us to notify you about upcoming shoe demos or climbing shoe discounts? Sign-up below.